Such old chief’s chokers of the Kuba are found extremely rarely on the international market for tribal art and tribal jewellery. The present necklace consists of 22 six-layered, old, multi-coloured and polished glass beads, also known as chevron, rosetta, star or aggry beads. Such chevron beads were invented in the 15th century by Venetian glass-blowers (Murano). To this end, glass rods of blue, white and red layers were cut into the size of beads, and the beads were polished on their ends, to the effect that 12-pointed stars were created (= the ‘12 apostles’). Especially in the 18th and 19th centuries, these beads were traded with Africa. Later, they were also produced in Holland, and today also in America and Asia. In Africa, chevron beads are still today viewed as particularly valuable elements of jewellery.
The present choker of a Kuba chief, from central Congo, displays a number of especially large chevron beads. The largest one measures ca. 6 cm in length and has a diameter of 4.2 cm. The bracelet is also decorated on the front with six large incisors of a leopard. This is a noticeable sign of rank since amongst the Kuba, leopard teeth were reserved for chiefs. The two largest leopard teeth were each strung here between two red glass beads as ‘spacer beads’. Overall, all beads and animal teeth are strung onto a robust, stiff and old iron wire, decreasing in size from the middle. A very rare and interesting object of cultural history. All parts are old. Complete and with no damage.
Diameter: c. 37 cm x 35 cm.
18th / 19th century. (ME)

Provenance:
German private collection.

Lit.:
‘A World of Necklaces’ by Anne Leurquin, ill. 138.