1: A fez-like round cap in luxurious execution. Fez caps, such as the present one, were worn by women throughout the Ottoman Empire, from Turkey to Damascus and Jerusalem. The outside of the cap is densely embroidered with motifs of leaves and flowers in fine silver wire. The flat metallic ‘Fez lid’ in the upper section was shaped from thin, twisted silver wire into foliate openwork volutes and a small central ‘lantern’, and subsequently (fire-)gilt! With a soldered hexagram (‘Star of David’), a Jewish symbol that also occurs in Islam and India either with an ornamental function or as a protection against evil. With twelve mounted red coral pearls and a red glass gem in the middle.
Eighteen chains made of silver and other metals hang on the round edge of the ‘Fez lid’, whilst mostly pierced silver ornamental plates and Ottoman coins hang on the chains as pendants. Overall an exquisite item!
19th century; H: c. 15 cm (with pendants), diameter: c. 16 cm (lower margin).

2: A girl’s hat of the Ersari Turkmens (from Turkmenistan or northern Afghanistan): Made of stitched red fabric with green stripes. Richly decorated with embossed silver-plates, a forehead ornament made of two bands of narrow, embossed silver plates, attached to chains, with lancet-shaped, smooth silver pendants.
Two long temple pendants hang on either side, each of them featuring three cut and decorated silver plates and pendants. Each of the six silver plates shows two large, cut and mounted carnelians.
The back of the hat features a long, red and striped train of fabric as decoration and cover of the back braid. Covered in silver plates along the rims, and with two sewn, polychrome, triangular, embroidered protective amulets with three and five hanging tassels.
The top of the hat is surmounted by a crest made of silver, engraved and partly (fire-)gilt in the style of the Tekke Turkmens. The crest features silver pendants, partly adorned with mounted and cut carnelians, red glass stones, and silver rattles. The central crests of Turkmen hats indicate that the young person who wears them is of a marriageable age.
A rare object, complete and in very good condition.
First half of the 20th century; H: c. 30 cm (upper hat alone), 74 cm (with temple pendants and train on the back). (ME)

Lit.: 'Schmuck aus dem Orient' by Wolf-Dieter Seiwert, fig. 43, 51, 728, 739, 747, 764; 'Palestinian Costume' by Shelagh Weir, fig. p. 180; 'Exotischer Schmuck' by Katrin & Ulrich Klever, ill. p. 104.