ON THE PULSE OF TIME

Exquisite wristwatches at auction on 3 December 2021


Watches are fascinating because of their mechanics, but also because of their design. Demand for exclusive CPO (certified pre-owned) wristwatches has been rising rapidly for several years. More than 200 luxury watches from renowned manufacturers will be up for bid at the Dorotheum auction on 3 December 2021. Of these, around 100 of the fine timepieces come from a collector who, in several decades of collecting, had acquired the most unusual pieces from the most exquisite brands. In his interview for the current issue DOROTHEUM myART MAGAZINE, he describes his passion for the mechanical-technical refinements or complications that can be accommodated in such a small space as a watch movement. And of course, the purchase of watches was also understood as an investment.

The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite in platinum from around 1995 is the top piece in the collection and the Dorotheum auction. The model was produced between 1994 and 1998 in an edition of only 200 pieces, 50 of which were in platinum. Because of its highly complicated technology, this watch is one of the most sought-after models for collectors produced by Lange & Söhne (estimate € 200,000 - 300,000).

Patek Philippe, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1839, makes collectors' hearts beat just as fast as the watches. It is one of the most expensive watch brands. The company became famous for the invention of the winding crown, which was patented in 1861. From then on, it was possible to wind the movement without an external key.  There is a chronograph from around 1942 that has a stop function with the reference 130. It is considered a classic chronograph: about 1500 copies were produced between 1936 and 1964 (estimate € 40,000 – 60,000). A model with the reference 3970 E from around 1994 will be up for auction with the same estimate.

Because of the special shape of the lugs, the Patek Philippe chronograph with the reference 1579 from around 1950 is also called "Spider Lugs". This absolute rarity was sold on 12 December 1951. It enjoys great popularity to this day, partly because of its relatively large diameter of 36 mm (estimate € 70,000 – 110,000).

Icon of watch history
This watch dates back to the 1970s—to 1977 to be precise—and is one of the most sought-after watch models. It is the Jumbo, the first Nautilus from Patek Philippe with the reference 3700/1. The design of this sports watch (the bezel in a rounded octagonal shape is based on a porthole) comes from Gérald Genta. The designer is credited with many designs of well-known and successful watch models, including those of other exclusive manufactures. He himself described his design style as "lignes douces" (gentle lines). His watches should fit the wrist and be comfortable to wear. 30,000 to 50,000 is the estimate for this watch rarity, which was only produced from 1976 to 1982. The watch was water resistant up to 120 meters of submersion and has a very high pressure resistance for the time. In advertising, it was touted as universally wearable: "It goes just as well with a diving suit as it does with a tuxedo".

The auction still offers many well-known watch brands, including IWC Schaffhausen, Rolex, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and a Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso Tourbillon with glass back, which was produced in a limited edition of only 500 pieces.

WRISTWATCHES AND POCKET WATCHES
Live auction with live bidding

Auction date     3 December 2021, starting at 1pm
Viewing starts   13 November 2021
Venue  Palais Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17, 1010 Vienna
Specialist Günter Eichberger, tel. +43-1-515 60-368, guenter.eichberger@dorotheum.at


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