Olam Turkmen women — a subgroup of the Ersari Turkmens in northern Afghanistan wear high bonnets made of cloth. And on the bonnet’s front, ornaments like these are attached by means of hooks and chains. The ornament consists of two big, slightly convex, outwardly cupped silver discs. The rims of the discs have a wavy finish thanks to the chased nubs soldered onto the back. The rounded surfaces of both discs bear very similarly engraved and chased decorations outlining expansive lotus blossoms and tendrils. Also cast in quality silver, the middle piece is in the shape of a mihrab (a prayer niche). It connects the two discs through hooks and eyelets. Three embossed, leaf-shaped pendants are hung underneath it, and above is a chain ending in a hook. A sizeable red carnelian stone graces its centre. The polished gemstone has engraved upon it a blessing in the Arabic script. The two big discs, also have, each embedded in the middle, a smaller evenly polished red carnelian with engravings. These sacred inscriptions lend these headdress-ornaments the character of an amulet. Three smaller stones are missing from the middle piece. A piece with old traces of usage (patina, scuffing, minor denting etc.). Very rare. DM: 13 cm (diameter of each of the silver discs), W: 55 cm (width with the chain and hooks); middle piece: H: 7 cm, W: 5 cm. 19th century. (ME)

Provenance: German Private Collection.

Lit.: 'Schmuck aus dem Herzen der Seidenstraße' by Johannes Kalter (Hoffmann Collection), ill. 18, 18a, 19.