Diamonds have always had a special charm. They are rare, regarded as the hardest material found in nature, and a perfect cut makes them truly shine. The jewellery auction on 25 May 2023 will offer exquisite diamond jewellery by international renowned jewellers and from former aristocratic ownership.

A total of 50 ct diamonds are set in an exceptional bandeau with French hallmarking from around 1940/50. It can be worn both as a diadem and as a bracelet. The sparkling piece of jewellery is estimated at 60,000 to 110,000 euros.

A ring with a 6.71 ct. emerald-cut diamond is expected to fetch at least 70,000 to 120,000 euros at the sale. From the Italian luxury jeweller Bulgari comes a diamond ring with a 4.01 ct emerald-cut diamond (€ 60,000–100,000). The auction also focuses on untreated gemstones: a 10 ct Ceylon sapphire set in a ring framed by brilliants is estimated at 20,000 to 38,000 euros.

The processing of diamonds began as early as the 15th century. Mary of Burgundy received the first historically documented diamond ring on the occasion of her engagement to Maximilian of Austria in 1477. The cutting shapes and technical possibilities have constantly evolved, starting from the Flemish diamond cutters. The stones became more and more facetted. The brilliant cut (developed in 1910) features at least 32 facets.

Vintage watch boom
A wristwatch primarily serves to measure time, but its value goes far beyond that - it is also a status symbol, luxury on the wrist. Its wearer makes a statement: sporty, elegant or classic. In recent years, some models have doubled or even tripled in price. Whether Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen, Omega, Breitling, Heuer, Cartier, Chopard, A. Lange & Söhne, Panerai, Girard Perregaux or Vacheron & Constantin – collectors pay top prices for masterpieces from top brands. A watch by A. Lange & Söhne Glashütte I/SA Tourbillon pour le Merite from 1995, which was produced in a limited edition of only 50 pieces, ranks at the top of Dorotheum’s watch sale results after fetching 321,750 euros.

Approximately 200 exclusive models will be offered at the upcoming major Dorotheum watch sale on 26 May 2023. Dorotheum expects 40,000 to 60,000 euros for a ‘Marine’ chronograph with tourbillon and stop function by Breguet, produced in around 2019. The chronograph combines two important innovations introduced by A. L. Breguet: the tourbillon regulator (patent 1801) and the compensation of the rate deviation due to changes affecting the escapement. The appellation ‘Marine’ represents the company’s connection to shipping: in 1815, Breguet was awarded a distinction as ‘Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy’.

20,000 to 40,000 euros is the estimate for the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, a wristwatch with annual calendar and moon phase, reference 5036/1, from around 2000. A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner ‘Kermit’ with green bezel (c. 2008, €12,000–18,000), a limited edition chronograph IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser (€10,000–15,000), and a gold wristwatch with large date by Lange & Söhne Glashütte with lance hands in blued steel (€30,000–50,000) round up the offer.